Turn and face the strange ‘cuz change changing places. Pardon the lyric mashup, but I’ve been subconsciously humming “Changes” by Bowie and Yes this past week and only just realized it when thinking about all the changes Osprey Tavern – the subject of this week’s review – has undergone. Not just changes in the past couple of months, but changes in the Baldwin Park boîte’s short five-year lifespan.
Chefs Bruno Fonseca, Joseph Burnett, Austin Boyd and Elek Kovacs have come and gone, each putting their stamp on the menu of new American fare by fussying up or editing down changes made by the kitchen’s previous administration. I don’t know if the ideal formula was ever found, but it’s a moot point now. The pandemic all but forced owners Jason and Sue Chin to transform Osprey Tavern into the restaurant it was always meant to be – a seafood joint. In fact, a seafood concept is what the Chins had in mind prior to opening Osprey Tavern back in 2015. It even inspired the restaurant’s design, as well as its name (the osprey is a fish-loving raptor, ya know).